May 27, 2011
Nearing the Coda: Bolivia, Week III

Nearly two weeks so far in Bolivia.

Spent a few days in lovely Sucre coming down from the altitude, grim history and obliterated landscape of Potosí.

Convalesced in La Paz: three days spent watching American sitcoms with Spanish subtitles while waiting for a fever to break in the highest captial city in the world.

Traveled to Chulumani in the Yungas through dusty roads cut out of impossibly-steep mountainsides.

Spent four days hiking in and out of spectral towns, smelling coca leaves dry on the sides of roads, following grass-overgrown streets to perfectly-preserved churches and stumbling into dream-like plazas populated by 95-year old señores discussing the festivals of September while resting upon the highest park bench in the world.

Returned to La Paz, getting winded on the narrow cobblestone streets, feeling dizzy and resigned to our remaining two weeks.

Traveled to Sorata by collectivo, winding through the high, windswept plains of the Altiplano back to the green tranquility and old colonial splendor of the Yungas.

And here we are, writing from a crowded Internet café in Sorata, preparing ourselves for our return home (sending out resumés in advance). In two weeks, Bolivia might seem like a dream.

But, for now, it is all too real and calling our names (in Spanish) and promising a hundred moments to remember it by and even more as a reason to return.

More later.

Con cariño,

Ashlie y Derek

May 15, 2011
Bolivia!

After taking a night bus from Salta to the border town of La Quiaca, we quickly descended to the check point, received our exit stamps from Argentina and stood in line to officially enter Bolivia.

Not so fast.

For those that don´t know, US-Bolivian relations have been shaky for, well, decades now, but have chilled to ice with Evo Morales tough posturing towards US foreign policy. As a result, any US citizen that wishes to enter the country must jump through a few more hoops than other nationalities.

As a result, we had to return to the Argentine side (which required a great deal of pleading and gesturing with the border patrolman) to A.) receive a yellow fever immunization at the local hospital (only required of US citizens), and B.) obtain 135 US dollars (which meant taking out Argentine pesos and taking a beating at one of the dozens of casas de cambio), and C.) providing a photocopy or oringial photo larger than two square inches.

Imagining a figure with endless zeros that would accompany the necessary vacuna (vaccine) we felt our stomachs drop. And the fee (that amounted to a shade under 1000 bolivianos) felt like figurative (and, given the location of the border on an actual road, literal) highway robbery. Bolivia was seeming more and more a hassle, while easygoing Argentina and Chile glistened temptingly in the distance.

However, after arriving at the hospital and waiting only a short amount of time, we were given our vaccinations, handed a certificate and sent on our way—free of charge!

So, returning to the office with a certificate of immunization, photocopied document and $135 US in hand (which felt surreal after handling foreign currency exclusively for over 2 months) we were sent on our way…

But, lo, another snag:

The lone ATM that accepted foreign networks was awaiting repairs, and, as was  befitting the day, we were 20 bolivianos short of our bus ride. But—and was also befitting the day—another American from Vale (who also accompanied us on our border crossing errands) loaned us $5 US, which got us our tickets, and a kindly New Zealand couple helped us along the way from Villazón to Potosí, paying our departure fees and buying us ice cream (the kindness of [English-speaking] strangers is never to be underestimated).

I will go into further detail about Potosí another time (we´re currently in Sucre and the sun is shining and it´s warm and lovely and the hotel room—not hostel—is beautiful—and cheap!—and the city, too, is beautiful and charming and basically the opposite, the antipode of Potosí).

Hasta luego,

Con cariño,

Ashlie y Derek

May 12, 2011
Next Stop: Bolivia

After holing up in beautiful Cachi for two days and nights (think Boulder, UT without an Escalante National Monument) we are back in Salta (La Linda) killing time before taking a night bus to the Argentina-Bolivia border town of La Quiaca.

(Side note: despite our blood vow to never, never, ever, ever again use Andesmar—the company from whom we last bought tickets from, that also happened to tell us the wrong platform and only reluctantly made alternate arrangements and refunded us the difference—we were given the bait and switch by the nice folks at Flecha Bus. Whether this means another miss or a comfortable seat in an airconditioned, up-to-code bus is still up in the air.)

We´re not exactly sure what to expect from Bolivia. Locals from Northwestern Argentina have talked a great deal about the (purportedly) bad food and smelly bathrooms (calling the kettle black, some—not us—might counter). But, with a exchange rate that makes our bank accounts feel robust again and the allure of lesser travel roads, it is hard to let rumors (or, in all probability, hard facts) deter us. 

And so, with a little luck and the obligatory $135 US dollars in hand, we will be in Bolivia by this time tomorrow. Likely straining to understand yet another dialect, learning the ropes of yet another privatized transit system and going through the climate/culture shock/s that accompany any new country.

Wish us luck. 

Con cariño,

Ashlie y Derek

May 10, 2011
Halfway, There

After WWOOFing for ten days in San Andres de Giles and wandering around the Palermo and San Telmo neighborhoods of Buenos Aires for another three, we´ve been back on the road, missing buses, meeting strangers and trying to find a thread to tie it all together.

Northwest Argentina is markedly different from the central and eastern towns and cities. Where the east and central cities (Mendoza, Bs As) flaunt their Italian and Contintental influence/s, the Northwest is markedly Spanish (and Quechua and Aymaru once you reach Salta), featuring city plans transplanted from Andalucia with streets and avenues named after the first heroes of the then-new republic.

The region that separates Tucuman and Salta was a fitting place to mark the 5-week countdown. The red rocks, spiraling sandstone canyons and dusty roads felt about as close to home as you can get without, well, actually returning (side note: maybe from a mixture of pride or longing, Utah’s parklands still reign supreme). 

But, home will come soon enough (less than five weeks, if anyone’s counting). 

And so, with that in mind, we’ve returned to the bus-city-bus-hostel-bus-bus-bus-camping game with renewed vigor (as I type this, we are sitting in yet another Internet cafe in remote Cachi, planning our venture towards Bolivia). 

As always, I wish words did these surreal, beautiful, familiar-yet-alien cities, lands and peoples justice. But (and again, as always), you’ll just have to take our word/s for it.

Hasta luego y con cariño,

Ashlie y Derek

April 26, 2011
Greetings from La Pampa

Apologies for the radio silence.

We´ve been óff the grid´in more ways than one, living and working in an idyllic farm in a small town outside of Buenos Aries.

It´s been a nice break from the tedium of choice that comes with longterm travel (which restaurant, which hostel, which bus, which, which, which, etc, etc, etc). And it´s also been nice to lay down roots (even if for just two weeks) and get outside of the tourists circuits we´re generally corralled into (which too seldomly intersect with real residents).

We´ve been staying with a young family that, a number of years ago, escaped the hustle and bustle of nearby (and impossibly large) Buenos Aries to raise and family and run a restaurant. The restaurant, Las Cortederas, features an ´horno de barro´which, for BBQ purists, is about as classy as it gets.

They´ve been keeping us busy with some nice by the numbers farm work…

From Ashlie: 

I´ve been Tending to needs of 18 sheep, one of which is sick and confused and ran off into a neighboring brick yard where 6 yelling men, 2 pigs and about 6 dogs helped me chase it down.  We work  8-11 then we eat lunch and have a lovely siesta, then back to work from 3-6.  We almost always eat lunch with the wonderful host family Sergio the father, Judith: the very perky ball of joy (the mother) and the 2 adorable kids Falcon (4) and Laura (2).  Dinner we usually make ourselves in the woofer compound.  There are 2 other woofers Sam who is from LA he´s 18 and has stories like he´s been alive as long as our grandfathers.  Then there´s Marge from france who can make unbeleivable crepes with 2 eggs, powder milk, and flour (We even ran out of oil).  The house we stay in has 4 little beds, a bathroom with a shower that hardly works,  and a small kitchen with a camp stove to cook with.  Its close quarters so its a good thing we really like the other woofers. 

From Derek:

Running out of time, but WWOOFing has been like a window into another life. Or put less seriosly, a chance to build things, take care of animals and just enjoy/embrace the rhthyms of what farm life would be like if it were spent with young, international kids on a farm in Argentina. I plan on taking many photos of the fence I built, of which I am strangely proud.

Hasta Luego,

Ashlie y Derek

April 18, 2011
Not Another Night Bus

Short and sweet for now.

We are killing time in Mendoza and anxiously anticipating yet another night bus. This time to Buenos Aries.

For those that don´t know, Argentina is actually fairly expensive (by comparison to, say, Peru). We´re hoping that a few weeks (or more?) spent wwoofing on a farm will make up for Argentina´s higher cost of living.

Hasta luego!

Ashlie y Derek

April 16, 2011
And Now for Something Completely Different (Argentina)

We made it.

Nearly four days in different buses.

Crossing different borders.

Straining to understand different accents.

And we´re here:

Mendoza, Argentina.

But, before we get ahead of ourselves and spend a paragraph or so talking about how beautiful Mendoza is, how radically different Argentina´s culture and people are from Peru (and, though we didn´t spend as much time there yet: Chile), etc, some observations:

Bus travel doesn´t require patience, but endurance. It feels much more like a marathon than a trip to the DMV.

Northern Chile is strangely reminiscent of Nevada (apart from the whole ´beautiful ocean coast´thing).

There is never a shortage of poorly-dubbed American B-movies on a bus. We now feel like we´ve seen more second-rate action films than an entire high school gradutating class.

Any complaint I may have written or even thought about Peruvian cuisine (particularly breakfast) I take back. Chile´s deasayuno options largely consisted of charrascos and hot dogs (I wish I were kidding), or, if you are lucky, a ham and cheese sandwich on toast (barras jarpa).

Chilean money actually looks and feels like Monopoly money, but is, well, valuable.

Mendoza, Argentina is basically like the Hayes Valley neighborhood of San Fransisco writ large. Beautiful tree-lined streets. A dozen or so well-kempt parks. Idyllic retail and restaurant options. Thriving wine culture. Etc.

Looks like we´ve got to cut it short.

More to come later,

Con cariño,

Ashlie y Derek

April 8, 2011
Cusco, Machu Picchu, Arequipa (and then some)

Many, many apologies.

Despite trying several computers, browsers, etc, I have been unsuccesful in copying and pasting photographs into this here blog.

So for now, you´ll just have to take my word for it (lame joke, I know).

After two days in Cusco, we managed, by the seat of our pants, to make it to Aguas Calientes and on to Machu Picchu.

Machu Picchu was beautiful. Though heavily trafficked (even in the low season and before a very important election), little of its heft and grandeur were lost.

We wandered guideless, snapping enough photographs to stock a post card stand and just trying to imagine how a place like this could have been built with painstaking detail over centuries was then lost to time for even longer.

(A confession: After visiting many pre-Incan and Incan sites, it can be easy to succumb to a sort of information overload. Even the most striking of details can, like the walls of non-Incan Chan Chan, just sort of melt into a lump of unsynthesized data. In other words: if you go to these sites, do lots and lots of homework beforehand, so as to get the most out of it, etc.)

While we took the bus up, we decided to walk back down to nearby Aguas Calientes, in the rain, cowering against the walls when buses came and feeling our age in our knees as we stomped down the granite staircases.

Arriving in Aguas Calientes had been painstaking and difficult, yet, departing was strangely easy. We took the train back Ollantaytambo and managed to find a very cheap taxi (S/. 10 person) for the 2 hour journey over the mountains to Cusco. Smarter, more patient people might have found a hostel to hole up in for the night. But, those people seldom take off three months from their lives to travel to South America.

So, we did the hasty thing and took a night bus on to Arequipa.

That night.

And now we´re in Arequipa. A beautiful city without comparison. A city with its own distinct architectural character (think San Francisco). A city with its own cultural identity. A city that, due in large part to our travel fatigue, we will be staying in for a the next few days, celebrating my birthday (26 years old now, gulp), and planning the next week or so of our journey (we´re planning on visiting nearby Cañon del Colca which, apparently, dwarfs America´s Grand Canyon).

We miss you all very much, and promise (scout´s honor) to have some photos up soon.

Con cariño,

Ashlie y Derek

PS: Remember the French-Canadian flight attendant/Coattailer? Well, we ran into him again. At the top of Machu Picchu. Awkward. Very awkward.

April 4, 2011
Qosc´o

After spending the first three weeks more or less in our own world, we have been the unfortunate downwinder of several new travelers desperate to ride the coattails of anyone that can speak English. These third-wheelers are generally harmless, and most pick up on ´please, leave us alone´ vibes. But there are those that, for whatever reason, latch onto our well-thought and well-researched plans (Editorial note: Ashlie is largely responsible for the hard task of researching and planning). In this case, a French-Canadian flight attendant with a face dripping in sunscreen.

After spending an entire day being accommodating and polite, we realized that, if we weren´t careful, we would have additional baggage to take to Machu Pichu (and many miles and cities beyond).

The brush-off was´n´t hard.

Just awkward.

And necessary.

But, I digress.

We´ve spent the last two days in Cusco (or Qoscó, if you feel like spelling it correctly in Quechua). The town is an ecclectic mix between imperial Spanish and anything-goes Latin American. The town´s charms come alive at night, however, as the the sprawling neighborhoods that nearly reach the peaks of every mountain cradle the ecclectic city light.

The hostel we´ve been staying in was effected by a recent utility line erosion and, as a result, has to have water delivered by truck every morning. Running water is only available for a few hours. And flushing a toilet requires a bucket of rain water. But, all things considered, it isn´t half bad, and has amazing views of the city.

We´re making our way towards Machu Pichu tomorrow. We´ve been hesitant to make too many plans, because, as we have learned, making plans in advance (like responsible people are taught to do) actually costs you much, much more than just arriving later and negotatiating. This has been by far the most expensive leg of the trip, but, forgoing Cusco and Machu Pichu on a trip to South America would be unthinkable.

We hope to upload more photos before that time (these words, despite their wordiness, just don´t do these places justice).

Con cariño,

Ashlie y Derek

(Note: Ashlie really is an amazing planner. She could easily float a touring agency in this place.)

4:44pm  |   URL: http://tmblr.co/ZseTnx43GIWF
  
Filed under: Cusco Peru Machu Pichu 
March 31, 2011
Huascaran

We just returned from a three day (guided, courtesy of Monttrek) trek in Parque Nacional de Huascaran. And. Wow.

We started of the Quillipac trek on the right foot, hiking an impressive 25km and arriving at a high valley with a beautiful view of a nearby glacial lake (or ´Cacha´as it is called in Quechua).

Getting there, however, was a much fatter task.

Whether from altitude sickness, fatigue or just a deficiency in belly fire, I struggled up the 4km long ´switching backs,´as our guide called them, and felt ready to call it quits.

Ashlie (and our excellent guide, Dario) on the other hand were ready for more.

And why not, when the trek consisted of regular views like this:

But, just after making camp, it began to rain. And then, through the night, it turned to snow.

After spending the early morning hours contemplating our choices, we made the right decision and turned back (trekking in ´high´season always runs this risk).

We were dissapointed to be turning back (though ascending another 1000 meters in slush and snow through ´switching backs´sounded somewhat ominous to me).

However, as a consolation prize, we did have the chance to hike up to the glacier lake, and watch an avalance take place (maybe not as impressive as conquering Quillipac, but still).

We spent the rest of the afternoon trudging through the water-logged landscape catching a few hours of sunshine that made us feel like maybe we had been to rash to opt out of the full trek. Until it began raining again. And we hastily made camp amidst a wash of mossy rocks and held out hope the tent would keep the water (it did).

Despite countless miles/kilometers under our feet, our sleeping pads did little to ease us into a well-earned sleep. In fact, I am pretty sure they are cursed. We slid on and off them all night like kids on a backyard waterslide. I´ve never felt so much wrath towards an inanimate object (besides a car) in all my life.

But, the world doesn´t stop for the tired and angry, and so we ate breakfast, picked up camp and continued down to a nearby pueblo to catch a ´combi´ back into Huaraz.

All said, it was an excellent trek. And our guide was incredible. He was a recent graduate of the prestigious International Mountainereeing program, had 17 years of guide experience and knew the Cordillera Blanca (and Negra) better than anyone. We spent a lot of time trying to talk up the wilderness areas of Utah. Hopefully someday he takes us up on the offer and allows us to guide him around our beautiful National Parks.

I´ll update more photos when I/we get the chance. We´re taking a night bus to Lima this evening (going luxury with a full bed this time). And planning to make our way towards Cusco before the weekend´s out.

We love you all (friends, family, casual parusers)!

Con cariño,

Derek y Ashlie

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Filed under: Huascaran Peru Huaraz Monttrek 
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